Ramadan in a fishing boat
Fasting while serving in the military in Tirana tested everything I thought I knew about faith.
How do you fast when you work 12-hour night shifts? That was the question I faced during my fifth Ramadan in Tirana.
I should tell you what Ramadan used to be. Before the divorce, it was my favourite month. My aunt would start cooking at 4pm — jollof rice and suya. The whole village smelled of turmeric and chilli by Maghrib.
That Ramadan doesn't exist anymore. Now I fast while the iftar is bread and hummus. The hunger is different. In before, fasting was a choice — you knew the feast was coming. Here, the feast is whatever the canteen has.
But here's what I didn't expect: Ramadan in prison is the most spiritual experience of my life.
When you have nothing, you have Allah. People share food they can't afford to share. Sister Aminah, who is 80 years old, leads taraweeh with a voice that makes grown men weep. Children who have seen too much sit in circles memorising Quran as if the words are armour.
Maybe they are.
Last Ramadan, on the 27th night, the entire ward prayed together. I stood there and cried. Not from sadness — from awe. These people, who had been through the worst, were still reaching for the holiest night of the year.
Ramadan taught me that worship is not about abundance. It's about what you offer when you have almost nothing left to give.